November 8, 2001

Hi everyone!

I hope everyone is enjoying this beautiful time of the year and preparing for holiday gift-giving for family and friends including fiber friends.

I would like to apologize to any of you who have emailed me through the website and did not get a response.  I was alerted by three of you that you had tried unsuccessfully to reach me.  Thanks for the alert as I was able to repair the problem links.  And, again, sorry if you have run into problems reaching me.

Best regards,
Margaret

In This Issue:

• Silk/Rayon scarf kit update
• Yarns available in most colorways
• What's new?  10/2 black Tencel
• Knitting an Ikat Fabric by Estelle Carlson
• Rose Treadling
• Travel dates
• Shopping/Contact/Order information

Silk/Rayon scarf kit update

Thanks for your enthusiastic response to the scarf knitting kits in the special silk/rayon yarn; it has been so popular.  For those of you who are new, these kits contain a 4 oz. skein of hand dyed silk/rayon in a special purchase yarn and scarf pattern by master knitter, Jackie Erickson-Schweitzer.  There are four patterns to choose from:  Crest of the Wave, Pillared Archways, Maple Leaves or Reversible Lace Cables.  Each of these are available in your choice of 2 Heritage colorways.  We have located more of this special yarn at a slightly increased price and will continue to offer while supplies last and try to keep the price as low as possible.  The kits are now available with a nice project bag for a low price of $15.  Additional skeins may be purchased for $12.  See the scarf kits at What's New or Knitting Kits.

Yarns available in most colorways

Most of the yarns at The Hand Painted Yarns can be dyed especially for you in any of the almost 40 colorways.  Colorway Collections will take you to the menu of colorway collections.  Different yarns will take up the color differently.  For example, rayon dyes  brilliantly.  Textured cotton will rend a softer color in the same colorway.  If you would like suggestions in selection, email me at Margaret@heritageyarns.com.  I am always glad to hear from you.

What's new?  10/2 black Tencel

Black is the latest color I have received in the 10/2 tencel and, like the other 10/2 tencel is available in 8 oz. skeins/2100 yds. priced at $16/skein.  This is put up on skeins in order that you may have a little of every color.  Others available are Moroccan Blue, Tussah Silk, Purple Sage, Persian Red and Herb Green.  Look for Deep Violet soon.  To see these visit What's New or Mill Dyed Yarns.  The 10/2 tencel would make a perfect warp and tabby for an overshot project, using 5/2 commercially dyed or hand dyed mercerized cotton for pattern weft.  I'm hoping to put on a warp soon to show you some possibilities.

Knitting an Ikat Fabric by Estelle Carlson

This newsletter's feature is an article on ikat knitting by Estelle Carlson. Estelle was recently featured on Home and Garden TV.  I enjoyed seeing it very much and found it especially interesting since the technique uses rainbow-dyed yarns.  Can't wait to try this.

KNITTING AN IKAT FABRIC by Estelle Carlson

Several years ago I received a book about textiles--not traditional textiles, but textiles that are created by tearing, burning, wrinkling and shredding.  Several of the textile designs are actually created with rust from old nails and metal plates. Renowned artists as Issey Miyake, Junichi Arai and Reiko Sudo are just a few of the innovators who are involved in the creation of these fabrics--fabrics known as the Nuno Textiles.  The book entitled Structure and Surface was a source of inspiration for me and
created within me a desire to create a unique fabric of my own.

In planning my knitted ikat fabric I have many choices--the choice to knit plain or textured fabrics--to wrinkle or warp the fabric--to use cotton, silk or woolen fibers--to use light or heavy weight yarns (or both)--and so on.  Then there are the many color choices available.

To create the ikat look, the fibers have to be painted in skeins.  The dried skeins are then wound into balls.

The second part of the ikat process begins with "recreating the skein." Taking the thread from the ball of yarn and placing the thread on the table, the skein is recreated--creating its original oval shape.    I am careful not only to maintain the oval shape of the skein, but to match the painted colors--red over red, green over green, yellow over yellow and so on.  A knitting marker is placed where the skein repeats itself.

I do not recreate the entire skein--I only recreate about five or six rounds of the skein.  Each repeat is marked with a string tied to the area, a loose knot or a pin.  This marked section of yarn is then rolled back into the ball of dyed yarn.  I then cast on up to the second marker--this should be about125 cast on stitches.  If I want to add another design unit I will cast on to the third marker.  After I have cast on the desired stitches I begin to knit in the round.

Knitting in the round (creating a long knitted tube) is the only way to create the ikat look.  Using the simplest cast-on stitch (page 126--simple cast on in The Principles of Knitting) I cast on about 126 to 135 stitches.  This knitted tube can be the original circumference of the skein or twice the original circumference.  Then using only the knit stitch I knit in the round matching the colors.  While knitting the first few rows I am careful to have the colors match--to keep reds over reds, blues over blues and so on.   Increasing and decreasing stitches help maintain the ikat pattern.  At this time it is quite easy to twist the rows of knitting-careful attention to the knitting is important.  It usually takes several tries at both casting on and knitting in order to finally achieve the ikat affect.

Once the ikat pattern is achieved and I am satisfied with the fabric's appearance, decisions regarding textural elements are made.   As I stated earlier, my fabrics are frequently combinations of differing weights of yarn.   Often I will knit the entire fabric with the same size needle--I do not change the needle size.  This is how the knitted fabric can become "wrinkled" or "warped".  However, changing the needle size along with the yarn weight can also create interesting textures.

After the knitted tube is completed, I sew two rows of zigzag stitching down the vertical length of the tube.  A small space in-between the stitched rows is left.  With very sharp scissors, a cut is made down the center of the stitched rows.  Now the tube is opened and I can really see what my knitted ikat fabric looks like.

In order to construct a jacket or vest a lightweight fusible (woven) interfacing is ironed on to one side of the knitted fabric.  The fusible interfacing not only gives substance to knitted fabric, but also prevents the fabric from unraveling when it is cut.  This process does not harm any of the knitted textures.

The final step in creating a garment is the garment construction. I use very simple patterns--Folkwear Pattern #112 is one of my favorite patterns.  This pattern can be varied in a variety of ways.

Recently at the University of California at Santa Barbara I had the opportunity to actually see several of the fabrics that are shown in the book Structure and Surface.   I was again reminded of the artistry and skill used in creating these exciting textiles.  Seeing and touching the fabrics inspired me once more. I want to create another unique knitted textile.  Now just how should this new fabric look?  Should  it be "shredded" or "layered"--"burned" or "rusted"--should it be brightly dyed or should I try for a more subdued look? At this moment I have no idea just what I am going to do--but whatever direction I take it will be an adventure.

Bibliography

Hyatt, June Hemmons Hiat: The Principles of Knitting - Simon and Schuster--1988                                                                                                   
McCarty, Cara and Matilda McQuaid: Structure and Surface - Museum of Art, New York--1998                                                                                
NUNO Corporation: all six NUNO books published by NUNO Corporation Japan - 1998-2000  

                                                                                                                      
In appreciation of Estelle's willingness to share, a link has been provided to view her website at Links.  Beautiful work, Estelle.

Rose Treadling

ROSE TREADLING

Rose Fashion

Pattern and tabby

Only patterns that contain star figures can be woven rose fashion.  A star is similar to a table, having 2 alternating blocks.  Usually there are 5 sections with the center block being smaller than the outside blocks.  The treadling order is converted within the motifs.  Change must start from the turning block of a star. An example is shown in the following cross to illustrate how 4 blocks would change throughout the pattern.

STAR  A B C (D) C B A
  TO
ROSE  B A D (C) D A B

As promised in issue #5, I will give you the rose treadling of the Mary Ann Ostrander pattern, p. 146 of A Handweavr's Pattern Book.  First, I will show the tromp as writ treadling in order that you may see it "side-by-side."

Tromp as writ:

A1, B1, (C2), B1, A1
D1, (C2), D1
A1, B1, (C2), B1, A1

D1, C1, B1, A3, D3, C5, (B4), (C2), (B4), (C2), (B4), C5, D3, A3, B1, C1, D1

Balance with the first 3 lines.

Rose:

B1, A1, (D2), A1, B1
C1, (D2), C1
B1, A1, (D2), A1, B1

C1, D1, A1, B3, C3, D5, (A4), (D2), (A4), (D2), (A4), D5, C3, B3, A1, D1, C1

Balance with the first 3 lines.  Here's how it would look  If using this threading, balance with the first 17 and balance treadling with the first 16.

Click on picture to enlarge.

Throughout the weave D and C will change position as well as A and B. Treadle the same number of shots as tromp as writ or square the block.  A good way to remember this is how it *would not* work.  If A and C changed positions and B and D, you would only be weaving the fabric upside down as these blocks are opposites.  Which brings us to  - Opposites - in the next
newsletter. (-:

Travel Dates

I  try to answer your email as quickly as possible.  This is not always possible when we are traveling.  I will be out from November 19-25 and from November 30-December 2 and will answer as quickly as I get back.  Email me at Margaret@heritageyarns.com or call me at 1 (601) 956-1478 if you anticipate needing anything before I leave.  Many thanks.

Shopping/Contact Information

Yarn shipments are limited to the U.S. and Canada. If you live outside the U.S. or Canada and would like to place a pattern order, please inquire at Margaret@heritageyarns.com.

Visit Knitting Patterns and take a look around at the wide selection of downloadable patterns from HeartStrings.

Purchasing options:  by PayPal shopping cart, Visa, MasterCard, personal check or money order.

Margaret Pittman
Heritage Yarns
5875 Baxter Drive
Jackson, Mississippi  39211-3317 USA

Telephone - (601) 956-1478
Email - Margaret@heritageyarns.com
Fax - (601) 957-2963
Celebrating color in hand painted skeins and warps since 1994

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