Warping a Loom Back to Front

Sleying the Reed

Sley the reed and begin tying on for back to front warping.

Step 37:  Sley the reed.  To begin sleying, follow the reed sequence chart for epi and reed size.  Rather than measuring by inches where to begin sleying, I shake the last bundle by several quick pulls  to line it up on the back beam and pull the last end forward between thumb and index finger to line up with a dent in the reed.  The reason that I do this is that occasionally, a warp will shift ever so slightly while beaming and may not be exactly centered.  If the warp is not centered in the reed, it will rub the selvage and eventually break.  If you find it is still not centered when you've finished sleying, unscrew the top of the beater bar and move the reed ever so slightly until it is lined up with the warp. 

Step 38:  Can you see that the warp is just ever so slightly off-center in the reed? 

Step 39:  You really can't see that it's off-center in this picture but that sleying is complete.   

Step 40:   This is the top of the beater bar.  I will loosen the screw on this side and one on the other, lift the top just a little so that I can slide the reed a fraction to the right to center. 

Step 41:  Divide the heddles so that they flow smoothly around clips when heddle bars are clipped. 

Step 42:  It might help to raise shafts in order to reach clips easier.   

Step 43:  Heddle bars shown clipped. 

Step 44:  Shake warp sections in front of the reed to close.  If there is still a gap at the clips, unfasten and re-clip until there is none or very little.  If this is not done, abrasion will occur on warp yarns in this area. 

Step 45:   There are several ways to tie on the front.  This just happens to be my favorite shown here.  The bundles are tied in a smooth overhand knot.  Try to keep the knots even across the warp. 

Step 46:  Warp bundles shown knotted. 

Step 47:  Second rod is attached to the first with rubber bands on the ends to temporarily hold while loosely tying on the warp. 

Step 48:  Larks-head sections of yarn across the second bar.  I use a thicker yarn for this such as Sugar and Cream. 

On the next page, we will continue the tying on process.

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